After The Killing we had Borgen. Then came Hugh Fearnley-Wittingstall cycling around Copenhagen discussing the Scandimania that is taking over the UK. It is fair to say that as a country we are fairly receptive to all things Danish at the moment, which makes the arrival of Sticks ‘n’ Sushi in Covent Garden well timed.
Sticks ‘n’ Sushi is one of the most successful restaurant groups in Denmark, set up by two half Danish, half Japanese brothers. They have taken inspiration from both cuisines so there is a blend of traditional Japanese and then a few fusion options.
Usefully for those with fussy friends or children the yakatori on offer caters to those not so keen on adventurous options or sushi. The menu is extensive but reasonably priced and portions generously sized – between two of us we had five different sushi options and it was plenty.
The grilled edamame have a gloriously smokey edge, a little flame enhances this little bean no end. You should also have the Ebi bites – lovely little pieces of tempura shrimp with coriander and chili and a silky smooth but powerful miso aioli. If you’re looking to splash out a little the caviar with soy cured salmon and avocado is a beautiful indulgence.
The sushi is all well prepared, fresh and despite the slightly naff names are delicious. The Hell’s Kitchen Roll – tempura shrimp, avocado, spicy sauce, tuna and barbecue sauce – was very good indeed, yes, perhaps not for the purists out there but I actually enjoy a little something unexpected when it comes to sushi.
Service was perky and the atmosphere is great. This is no small, quiet sushi place with a little rotaing conveyor belt of nigiri blinking at you from within a sad little plastic bubble, this is a trendy, industrial space that sprawls over two floors.
There is a lovely sushi bar downstairs and upstairs the exposed brick walls are softened with cosy lighting and warm wood. It certainly feels like somewhere you’d have a great night out with friends – cocktails, sushi and a little Scandinavian cool – not a bad combination.