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Palazzo Envy III

Wendy Coumantaros revels in Tuscan history, refinement and luxury at Castiglion del Bosco, and discovers endless ways to delight her tastebuds

W orking out quite how old Castiglion del Bosco is presents a challenge. Massimo Ferragamo was inspired to create an exclusive private members’ club in 2003. The 22 farmhouses and buildings he has refurbished for members date from the 17th and 18th centuries. The titular fortress saw the Fourth Crusade, while a keen archaeologist can find Etruscan treasures.

Ferragamo’s idea combines the glorious history and traditions of Tuscany with the utmost modernity of approach and practice. For example, one may stay in a restored ancient farmhouse that fits into its landscape as if has been there for ever (and it may well have been), but it is replete with the best of the 21st century. He has a reverence for history: the tiny, jewel-like 700-year-old chapel has been exquisitely revived, with its fresco by Pietro Lorenzetti.

Even the very modern aspects of the Castiglion del Bosco estate are tinged with tradition: the suede- and leather-fitted walk-in closets are gently scented with botanical potpourri devised by L’Officina Profumo, the early-17th-century Florentine pharmacy. Playfully, antique furnishings sit alongside iPod docking stations and LCD flat-screen televisions.

I found my palatial guest suite, within the Castiglion itself, a paradise, with all conceivable touches attended to, including a large drawing room perfect for when it became too hot outside or for when one wants to be immersed in the beauty and splendour within. Accentuating this pleasure was the view from my private terrace, which provided a wonderful space from which I could relax and try to take in that particular Tuscan quality of sunlight.

There are 22 villas in total, and no more than six members each in order to maintain the personal sense for each villa. The membership is global, from America to China, and a committee of existing members vets applicants to ensure that the standards are the highest. This does not mean that Bosco is unwelcoming — far from it. Its high membership criteria mean that the very best, most interesting people are to be found here.

T he estate itself is pure heaven: 4,500 acres within a national park pierced with rows of Cypress trees which stretch as far as one can see, even when shading the eyes from the yoke-yellow sun. Even in this warmth it’s a pleasant walk up to Il Borgo, the hilltop village which hosts the guest suites, the estate’s elegantly designed restaurant, magnificent library and culinary academy, among countless other relaxations. Hard by the restored walls are the vegetable garden and orchards, which ensure the estate is kept in seasonal produce all year long.

In this vein of local produce, it’s worth attending to the Castiglion del Bosco Winery. A beautiful, classic Tuscan building of over 39,000 square feet, it houses an ultramodern winery that produces award-winning wines from 45 sprawling acres of Sangiovese vineyards. The estate has produced wine for centuries and is the most important vineyard in Montalcino, producing upwards of 400,000 bottles every year.

The wine is stored in French Barrique barrels, bringing the Gallic approach to Italian wines. It is no wonder that their delicious Brunello di Montalcino, ‘Campo di Drago’, is renowned among connoisseurs of Italian wine. Campo di Drago, Bosco’s three other reds and white Cardone were appreciated sitting in their spectacular circular wine library, where members can store their wine collection. What is novel is the ability to dine by candlelight in the centre of this splendour.
 

T he food demonstrated just why Italian cuisine has dominated so much of our lives and — at its finest — has no competitor. Their offerings of salami with fennel, succulent prosciutto and sharp Pecorino were rustic simplicity itself, while a variety of sophisticated, freshly made ravioli and risotto were boons to the palate. Their beef is not to be missed. On entering the farmhouse kitchen there is a most enchanting charcuterie (hence the prosciutto). La Canonica, Bosco’s culinary academy, showcased the talents of executive chef Moreno Miotto, who stimulated both the mind and the palate as he demonstrated the secrets of Tuscan cuisine.

The activities available at the Castiglion del Bosco take advantage of the geography — the different grades of hiking trails invigorate the amateur and stretch the more experienced walker. I preferred something gentler — bocce, the Italian version of bowls — but could have been tempted (on a more energetic day) to take up the offer of wild-boar shooting or a lesson in the equestrian centre. There is also a championship golf course designed by former Open champion Tom Weiskopf.

What is most admirable about the Ferragamo concept is how, by combining its Tuscan past with its exquisite present, an eternal delight has been created.

Castiglion del Bosco, Tuscany
+39 0577 807 078
www.castigliondelbosco.it